Should I vary my application method if my client has oily nail beds?

HEMA-Free alternatives can still be applied to clients with soft or oily nail beds. Make sure you perfect your prep and application.

For clients with HEMA allergies and soft/oily nail beds follow these steps:

1. Buff the nail thoroughly with your 100/180 buffer — this is to remove the surface oils that will compromise the longevity.
2. Cleanse thoroughly with pure acetone only — no prep and wipe solutions.
3. Just before you apply your base coat to each nail, cleanse again with pure acetone — this will draw out any surface oils and moisture and increase adhesion.
4. Apply Bond Base. We recommend ‘scrubbing’ the base coat into the nail to improve adhesion. ‘Scrubbing’ means working the base coat into the nail plate rather than painting on without much pressure.
5. Do not apply the product too thick — the thicker the product, the less likely it is to cure fully, and this can lead to lifting.
6. Do not allow the product to flood the cuticle under any circumstances — this will encourage lifting.
7. Book your client’s repeat appointment for two weeks instead of three. This may not be necessary forever, but just whilst you adjust the client’s nail to a formula change.